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Regular maintenance will help keep your Marvin windows and doors operating smoothly. Use this checklist as an annual maintenance reminder.
When performing maintenance, always consider your safety first:
Keep your Marvin windows and doors looking their best with regular interior and exterior glass cleaning.
For best results, do not clean glass when it is exposed to direct sunlight.
Use of razor blades or knifes is not recommended on any coated glass such as Low E II. However, if paint or other construction residue cannot be removed from any non-coated glass surface with normal cleaning, a new 1" razor blade may need to be used on small areas only! Scraping should be done in one direction only. Never scrape in a back and forth motion, this will only trap debris under the blade and permanently scratch the glass.
WARNING: Do not use scrapers for cleaning glass. Glass scratched by a scraper is not covered under the Marvin Window and Door warranty.
New Marvin windows and doors will bear a Marvin label. Labels and adhesive residue should be removed from glass as soon as possible after installation. If a label does not release from the glass easily, use the methods described below to remove it.
The best method to clean the glass on your Integrity product is to first soak the glass surface with a clean water and soap solution to loosen dirt or debris. Use a mild, non-abrasive window washing solution and apply with a non-abrasive applicator. Immediately after washing the glass, remove all of the cleaning solution with a squeegee, taking care not to allow any metal surface of the cleaning equipment to touch the glass surface. Make sure that no abrasive particles are trapped between the glass and the cleaning material. Window and door gaskets, sealants and frames are susceptible to deterioration if cleaning solutions are not rinsed and dried immediately after cleaning.
CAUTION: Do not use razor blades, knives or scrapers for cleaning glass surfaces.
Remove surface dirt and check the exterior of your wood windows and doors at least once a year to ensure that the wood is not exposed to the elements by failing caulk or by paint that has cracked, pealed or bubbled.
Superficial surface dirt can be removed by washing painted wood exteriors with water and a soft-bristled, long-handled brush (such as those used for washing cars). Heavier accumulations can be removed with a mild solution of household detergent. Other cleaning solutions consisting of alcohol/water mixtures are also effective.
As with any cleaning operation on a vertical painted surface, streaking will be minimized if the surface is washed from the top to the bottom. Always rinse the surface well with clean water to remove excess detergent solutions or cleaners. Prolonged detergent contact with paint can cause damage to the finish.
Grease or oily materials may require the use of stronger cleaning compounds. Solvents or abrasive-type cleaners should be avoided. Do not allow strong detergents, ammonia, chemicals or other harsh cleaning substances to come in contact with finished exterior surfaces as they can cause damage.
Small damaged areas in the painted finish, such as nicks and scratches, may be touched up with a matching, high-quality latex primer and paint. Contact your local paint supply store for product recommendations and instructions.
Inspect the exterior caulking around the outer edges of the window frame. Trim off any old, loose caulking and seal any gaps with a good quality caulk.
If you have a brand new, bare wood Marvin window or door, you must finish it immediately to prevent possible damage to the wood. Please view the Painting and Staining section for instructions.
Wood framing should be cleaned with clear water or a mild solution of household detergent. Grease or oily materials may require stronger cleaning compounds, but avoid solvents or abrasive-type cleaners. Clean from top to bottom to avoid streaking and always rinse the surface well as any lingering detergent can damage the finish.
Marvin's clad-wood windows feature a low-maintenance extruded aluminum cladding with a commercial grade finish that offers you a beautiful, low-maintenance exterior.
Light surface dirt is usually washed off by normal rainfall. Surface dirt can also be removed with a wash and rinsed with clear water. Use a soft brush such as a long-handled car washing brush.
If you wish, you can use a mild detergent (such as dish soap) to remove any bugs, grime, dirt or dust that may gather on the aluminum cladding. To be sure your cleaning solution will not harm the factory-applied clad finish, test your cleaning solution on an inconspicuous area before washing cladding.
A thorough, clear water rinse should follow. After rinsing well and drying, you can use car wax to add shine.
Over-cleaning or scrubbing a coated metal surface can do more harm than good to its surface life. Do not use solvents or abrasive-type cleaners on any coated surface.
Information regarding cleaning and maintenance recommendations for clad product installed in coastal areas is available in the Aluminum Clad Products in Coastal Environments section of the Service and Maintenance section.
The presence of mildew on your exterior can be confirmed by placing a drop of household bleach on the suspected mildew area. If small gas bubbles develop in the droplet of bleach and the area bleaches out, mildew does exist and should be removed from the exterior of your windows or doors.
Use this basic solution for removing exterior mildew.
Please note: A stronger concentration of cleaner can damage the coating surface or finish.
Caulking tars and similar substances can be removed with mineral spirits. Use a soft bristle brush with medium pressure. A clear water rinse should follow. Be sure to follow label directions for use and disposal of mineral spirits, and wear protective eyewear and clothing.
Cleaning the screens on your Marvin windows and doors is best done by removing the screens altogether, laying them on a flat clean area, like a sidewalk, and spraying off any dust with water from your garden hose.
Allow the screens to completely air dry before replacing them in the window or door.
If you live in a cold climate, it is recommended that you remove exterior window screens and screen doors during the winter. The mesh may collect snow and ice, causing the screen to sag.
Always work from the exterior of the door when removing and replacing door screens.
Follow the directions below to remove and reinstall different screen types.
Interior screens, such as those found on Casement and Awning windows, sit within a groove in the interior millwork of the window and use spring-like tension to remain in place.
To remove interior screens, simply lift up on the finger lifts (or finger routes) at the bottom of the screen. This will cause the spring-like mechanism at the top of the screen to compress. Using the finger lifts and continuing to apply upward pressure, draw the bottom of the screen out of the window.
To reinstall the screen, place the top of the screen in the top of the window. Holding the screen using the finger lifts, gently push up on the screen. This will cause the spring-like mechanism at the top of the screen to compress. Using the finger lifts and continuing to apply upward pressure, place the bottom of the screen into the window.
Exterior screens (such as those found on Clad Ultimate Double Hung and Tilt-Turns) utilize a plunger pin system.
To remove the screen, grasp the plunger pins and pull inward until the pins clear the screen lip on the frame cladding.
On Clad Ultimate Double Hungs, push the screen outward, grasp screen frame and pull down slightly. Turn the screen sideways and bring it through the window into your home.
To reinstall the screen, place the screen sideways through window frame, turn it to an upright position and place the top plunger pins against the screen lip at the head jamb.
Pull the screen towards the interior, holding the plunger in the open position. When the screen is flush against the frame, release the plungers to lock the screen against the screen lip.
Often confused with storm windows, an energy panel is technically a glazing option. It is a removable, exterior glass panel finished on the edges by a surround. Energy panels cover the exposed glass surface of each sash, and offer added energy efficiency for wood windows with single glazing.
Occasionally make sure that all fasteners on your energy panels are closed securely. Clean and maintain the glass the same way as your other windows for regular interior and exterior care.
Do not caulk around your energy panel. It is designed to allow a certain amount of air circulation.
Ultimate Sliding French Doors and Sliding Patio Doors - (page not found)
Ultimate Swinging French Doors and Ultimate Arch Top French Doors - (page not found)
Trimline Patio Door - (page not found)
Safe-T-Plus Patio Door - (page not found)
Terrace Door - (page not found)
To clean your screens, remove them from the window, lay them on a flat clean area and spray off any dust with water from your garden hose. Allow them to dry thoroughly before replacing. In cold climates it is recommended you remove screens from doors during the winter as collected snow may cause the screen to stretch and sag.
Ultrex sills are usually beige in color, but can also be bronze in tone.
Ultrex is neither plastic nor metal, but rather an energy-efficient, durable, pultruded fiberglass material that is virtually maintenance free. Ultrex is used in the sills of all Marvin doors and glider windows.
To keep your windows and doors operating smoothly, periodically remove dust and debris from the Ultrex sill. Ultrex’s finish can be cleaned using warm water and a non-abrasive household cleaner.
Important information regarding aluminum clad products installed in coastal areas may be obtained from viewing the fact sheet “Protecting Windows and Doors from Corrosion in Coastal Areas”.
Marvin's Double Hung, Tilt Pac and Glider Windows feature sash that tilt-in or can be easily removed for cleaning. Follow the directions below for each window.
Begin by raising the bottom sash about 4".
Pull the tilt lever (nested in the sash lock base) until it clicks.
Hold lever until the sash latches clear the unit frame when tilting. Ease top edge of bottom sash out toward you to a horizontal position.
To tilt the top sash, lower the sash about half way. Pull the tilt latches (in the top edge of sash top rail) simultaneously until they clear unit frame when tilting. Ease top of sash toward you to a horizontal position.
If you have a single hung window, only the bottom sash is operational. The top sash is fixed in the frame, and cannot be tilted or removed.
To remove the sash, tilt the bottom sash using the same technique described in the Ultimate Double Hung and Single Hung Windows - Tilting the Sash section (above).
When sash is in a horizontal position, lift both sides of the sash upward 2-3" (raising pivot pins out of each clutch).
Now rotate the sash until pivot pins clear the jambs and remove the bottom sash from the frame.
Next, tilt the top sash using the same technique described in Ultimate Double Hung and Single Hung Windows - Tilting the Sash. When the sash is in a horizontal position, lift both sides upward 2-3" (raising pivot pins out of each clutch). Finally, rotate the sash until the pivot pins clear the jambs and remove the top sash from the frame.
To replace the double hung sash, first hold the top sash in a horizontal position, top rail toward you, exterior face up.
Sash pivot pins must be placed 2-3" above the clutch assemblies when relocating in the jamb carrier tracks. Pivot one side of the sash up to enable pivot pins to clear jamb carrier assemblies when aligning sash in tracks, pivot sash back to horizontal (flat) position. Lower sash pivot pins into balance clutch cams.
Check sash pivot pins to ensure they are fully engaged in the clutch cams before proceeding.
Now, tilt the sash up, pulling the tilt latches until they retract fully on both sides, and hold them while you ease the sash into place. Check the nose of each tilt latch to ensure it is fully engaged in the sash guide track of jamb carrier assembly.
Raise the top sash to the top of frame. Repeat above procedures for bottom sash, except retract the sash check rail guides with the tilt lever in the sash lock base when installing.
Sometimes when attempting to tilt or remove a sash, the clutch assembly that helps lift the sash slips. When this happens, the two clutches (one on either side of the window) will no longer be at the same height in the jamb track. The slipped clutch will need to be reset before the sash can be replaced.
Clutches are under extreme tension. Please use caution when following the directions below
:First you will need to raise or lower one clutch so that it matches the position of the other.
First, decide which clutch you wish to reset. Measure the other clutch’s distance from the sill on the opposing side and temporarily mark that dimension on the jamb carrier that contains the clutch you will reset. (The clutches must be reset so that their respective heights in the jamb carrier system are within 1/8" of one another.) This will tell you where the slipped clutch needs to be repositioned.
Next, using a flat screwdriver, rotate the balance clutch cam in the clutch assembly of the slipped clutch to the released position. Clutches are under extreme tension! Hold the screwdriver firmly and slide the slipped clutch to the mark.
Rotate the balance clutch cam to the open locked position (cam opening up). Release the screwdriver carefully from the clutch assembly (it must lock in place or damage will occur).
Compare clutch heights from the sill for the sash affected. They MUST be within 1/8” of each other or damage may occur when sash are reinstalled, adjust height as needed.
Remove interior jamb stop by first unscrewing the top screws. Lift the sash to the fully "up" position and remove the lower screws. Grasp and remove jamb stop.
Raise the bottom sash to a recommended minimum 3" up from the sill. With a person at each side of the window, insert a putty knife or plastic credit card between the bottom sash checkrail and jamb. Slide the putty knife down approximately 4" past the top of the sash to release the latch blade. See figure (b).
Lean top of sash toward you to a horizontal position to lock clutches. Lift both sides of the sash up 2"-3" (separating the pivot pins from the clutches). See figure (c).
Rotate the sash counterclockwise until pins clear the jambs and remove the sash. See figure (d)
Remove the top sash wood jamb filler by pushing on the flange and rotating the filler towards the exterior.
Remove the exterior clad jamb filler by pushing on the flange and rotating the filler towards the interior. Take care not to drop the filler. Wood units have a two part bottom filler. Remove the lower section following the same procedure as removing the clad filler. The top portion of the filler may be removed by placing a flat screwdriver behind the filler and carefully prying it off.
NOTE: Some clad fillers may require inserting a flat screwdriver under the exterior edge of the filler. Gently pry it away from the jamb carrier.
Lower the top sash a minimum of 4" and with a person at each side of the unit release the top tilt latches. Ease top of sash towards you to a horizontal position. Lift both sides of the sash upward 2"-3" (separating the pivot pins from the clutches). Rotate the sash counterclockwise until pins clear the jambs and remove the sash.
Ensure that both left and right clutches are parallel and in the (vertical) locked position.
NOTE: To reposition the clutches use both hands on a flat screwdriver to rotate the clutch cam to the released (horizontal) position. Firmly holding the screwdriver with both hands, slide the clutch to the desired position. Rotate the balance clutch cam to the locked (vertical) position.
With a person on each side of the sash, insert the top sash ensuring that the pivot pins are placed above the jamb clutches. Lift window into place, pull back on the tilt latch and tilt the unit up into place. Release the latch ensuring that the latch pin is properly seated and the sash is securely in place.
Replace the interior jamb top and bottom fillers by first inserting the flange side of the filler into place and pushing on the filler to rotate and snap the filler into place.
Ensure that both left and right clutches are parallel and in the locked position. With a person on each side of the sash insert the bottom sash ensuring that the pivot pins are placed above the jamb clutches. Lift the sash up into place using a putty knife to depress the latch blades. Once into place remove the putty knife ensuring that the latch blades are properly seated into the jamb carrier.
Install the interior jamb stop and reinstall ALL interior jamb stop screws.
Raise the bottom sash about 3". Depress vinyl jamb liner and ease top of sash toward you to a horizontal position. Lift one side and remove sash.
Remove the top sash. Lower top sash about half way. Depress vinyl jamb liner and ease top of sash toward you to a horizontal position. Lift one side and remove.
The top sash must be installed first in the outside track (closest to the exterior).
CAUTION: When replacing sash, both sash pins must be positioned above the locking terminal assembly located in the vinyl jamb liner.
Hold the top sash in a horizontal position. Place one sash pin above the locking terminal assembly. Raise opposite side and place sash pin above locking terminal assembly on that side. Tilt sash up and, depressing the vinyl jamb liner, ease into place. Lower sash slightly to engage locking terminal assembly. Raise the top sash to top of frame and repeat the procedure for the bottom sash.
After the sash is installed, check the vinyl weather strip flange on the exterior side of the vinyl jamb liner to see that it is not wedged between the blindstop. (Older style vinyl jamb liners do not have the weatherstrip flange.) If it is, loosen it by sliding your finger along the blindstop.
Unlock the window.
Loosen the sash retainer plates located on the top of the lower sash.
Raise the bottom sash about 3".
While pushing the left vinyl jamb liner into the frame with your left hand, ease the upper left corner of the lower sash toward you, popping it slightly off the vinyl jamb liner.
Now do the same with the upper right corner, pulling the sash toward your body with your left hand while depressing the jamb liner with your right.
You may make this process easier by using a 1/2" diameter dowel—just cut a dowel 1/2" longer than the sash width, then gently insert the dowel into the window frame, pushing the jamb liners into the sides of the window frame.
Pull gently on the sash until the top comes free of the window frame and the sash tilts inward.
To remove the sash altogether, lower the sash to a horizontal position, then lift one side, then the other, out of the locking assemblies to pop the entire sash out of the frame. Notice the sash pins protruding on each side of the bottom of the sash.
To remove the upper sash, open it about half way and remove in the same manner as the lower sash.
When replacing sash, both sash pins must be positioned above the locking terminal assembly located in the vinyl jamb liner.
Should a locking terminal assembly slide up after removing the sash, reposition the locking terminal assemblies so that they are level with each other. Holding a flathead screwdriver firmly, pull the locking terminal assembly located in the jamb liner down to approximately 8" to 10" from the sill. Engage the terminal assembly in the locked position by turning the screwdriver towards you. Be sure assemblies are locked before removing screwdriver. Damage could occur if the terminal assemblies are not locked.
Note: Only the operating sash of a Glider can be removed from the frame.
Slide the operating sash to stationary side of the unit (approximately 2"-3" from stationary jamb).
Lift the operating sash upward, off the sill track. Pull operating sash inward at bottom to remove from frame.
To replace the sash, reverse procedures for removing the glider’s operating sash.
For regular cleaning and maintenance of Ultrex use a non-abrasive household cleaner, wiping the Ultrex surface in a gentle fashion. A mild detergent solution (water-based) is recommended for cleaning by applying the solution to a soft cloth and wiping the Ultrex surface. Extreme pressure or scrubbing action is not recommended. No solvents, paint thinner or other chemicals of any type are recommended for use with Ultrex, as they may affect the integrity, functionality and appearance of the coating.
Today’s finishes look great and are long lasting. Find out how to clean and care for Marvin window and door hardware.
During cold winters, there is a great temperature difference between the inside of a house and the weather outside. When the temperature drops outdoors, the glass on your windows and doors tends to have lower temperatures than other surfaces in your house, and is the first place that you’ll notice condensation in your home. This is not due to any defect in your window or door; it’s simply a sign of high humidity in your home. Warmer air is capable of holding much more moisture than cooler air. The temperature for vapor filled air goes down when it gets close to cooler surfaces, and so does its ability to hold moisture. When the temperature reaches its dew point, the moisture condenses, attaching to the nearest cool surface. The first surfaces where you’ll notice this happening is the glass on windows and doors. Condensation is an unsightly problem. The last thing you want on your windows is a fog blocking the view. But the problem goes deeper than that—if condensation is a chronic occurrence in your home; chances are that you have excessive humidity. If water is accumulating on glass, chances are it is accumulating on other harder to see surfaces such as wall and roof cavities. If left uncontrolled, excess moisture can have serious consequences, including:
Excessive humidity is more likely to occur in newer or recently remodeled homes with tight, energy efficient construction, causing a build up of moisture to the interior. There are ways you can reduce humidity in your home. Please consult Measuring a Homes Humidity Level and Excess Moisture: Causes and Cures for tips on identifying and eliminating sources of excess moisture in your home.
You can determine how much moisture is in your home with an inexpensive Hygrometer that can be purchased from your local hardware store. Place the Hygrometer in your home for a few days and record the readings each day. Compare your data to the chart below. As outside temperatures drop, the indoor relative humidity level of your home should decrease. For homes with windows equipped with insulating glass, the University of Minnesota Agriculture Extension Service reports that the following humidity levels can be maintained in the home without causing window condensation. If your home’s relative humidity is higher than this chart, please consult Excess Moisture: Causes and Cures for tips on identifying and eliminating sources of excess moisture in your home. Outside Air Temperature with ideal inside relative humidity for 70° F (21° C) indoor air temperature:
Cause: Inefficient windows with extremely cold glass surfaces Cure: Install energy-efficient windows and doors. High-performance windows, such as those made with Low E II coatings with Argon gas, make the most of the sun’s heating rays during cold months and maintain a remarkable temperature difference between the indoor and outdoor panes of glass. Cause: Inadequate ventilation of windows Cure: Keep window coverings open during the day to allow air circulation and make sure patio doors have heat vents beneath them. Cause: Moist air trapped in attic Cure: Seal around indoor light fixtures to prevent warm, moist air from rising to the attic. Install soffit vents to prevent attic rot, making sure to keep vents clear of dirt and garden debris. Cause: Radiator or kerosene heat Cure: Use dryer sources of heat such as gas or electric furnaces. Cause: Cooking and dishwashing Cure: Vent stove range hoods and dishwashers to the outside. Cover pots while cooking. Cause: Stale, damp air Cure: Install an air-to-air heat exchanger to vent moist air outside. Some air quality systems recover up to 97% of the existing warmth and energy to heat incoming fresh air. Cause: Showers and baths Cure: Make sure bathroom exhaust fans are vented to the outside and use fans regularly.
When temperatures drop during the winter, it is not uncommon for condensation to occur on glass windows and doors. This is not caused by a defect in your window or door; it is simply a sign of high humidity in your home.
Condensation can be unsightly, but it can also be a source of more significant problems. If left uncontrolled, excess humidity can cause:
Excessive humidity can actually be an issue in newer, energy-efficient homes that don’t “breathe.” An inexpensive hygrometer should be able to tell you if your humidity levels are in check.
If you experience condensation on the exterior or interior of your window and door surfaces, you may notice discoloration along the lower parts of your wood windows or doors. This discoloration is likely the result of mildew or water stains. Mildew is a fungus that thrives on warmth and moisture, but can flourish to some extent under all climatic conditions. Mildew growth is usually brown or black in color, and for this reason, may be mistaken for dirt. Follow the instructions below to care and maintain your Marvin products.
If you experience quite a bit of interior condensation, you may notice discoloration along the lower parts of your wood windows or doors. This is the result of mildew growing in damp areas. Use regular laundry bleach on a sponge to remove the mildew.
Please note: The application of a bleach and water mixture is likely to discolor and/or remove the interior wood finish and sealant. It will be necessary to refinish the wood after bleaching.
Use this basic solution for controlling exterior mildew.
Always wear protective eyewear and skin protection when using harsh cleaning compounds.
Apply the solution with a soft bristle brush using medium pressure.
Rinse the finish well with clear water after cleaning.
Oxalic acid can be used to bleach bare, unfinished wood that has been water stained.
Oxalic acid is a poisonous strong organic acid used especially as a bleaching or cleaning agent. It can be purchased at hardware, drug, or grocery outlets.
Always use eye and hand protection and read the manufacturer’s instructions and application procedures carefully before using.
Condensation is visible evidence of excessive moisture in the air. It may appear as water, frost, or ice on the interior surface of windows or doors. If you experience quite a bit of condensation, you may notice discoloration, or mildew, along the lower parts of your windows or doors.
Condensation may be the result of one of three occurrences:
Windows and doors do not cause condensation. Therefore, windows and doors can not cure condensation. To learn more about condensation and how to control the humidity level in your home, view our Condensation FAQ.
Use this basic solution for controlling exterior mildew:
Oxalic acid can be used to bleach bare, unfinished wood that has been water stained. Oxalic acid is a poisonous strong organic acid used especially as a bleaching or cleaning agent. It can be purchased at hardware, drug, or grocery outlets.
Immediately following installation, all bare wood windows and doors must have a top quality finish applied to the exterior and interior surfaces. Periodically, wood windows and doors must be refinished, as needed, to avoid damage to wood parts.
* Some exceptions may apply.
A bare wood, brand new Marvin window or door must be painted immediately to prevent possible damage to the wood, even if the window or door is already primed. Primers function to maximize adhesion between the wood and the paint; they do not offer any protective qualities.
Windows and doors with a wood exterior should be inspected and repainted periodically. Any signs of blistering, peeling or cracking in the finish should be immediately repaired to protect the wood underneath. Consult with a local paint store or house painting contractor for the best solution for your needs. If you notice any cracks, they should be caulked prior to repainting with a high-quality caulking material or a paintable grade caulking compound.
Paints, stains, and varnishes contain solvents which, when coming in contact with plastics and vinyl used in weather stripping, cause these materials to lose their flexible qualities, making them brittle. Even momentary contact between the finish and the plastic will cause this to occur. Also, do not allow strong detergents, ammonia, solvents, chemicals or other harsh cleaning substances to come in contact with painted exterior surfaces as they can be damaged.
If you have a brand new, bare wood Marvin window or door, you must finish it immediately to prevent possible damage to the wood. Even a primed window has no guarantees; primers function to maximize adhesion between the wood and the paint. They do not have any protective qualities.
:Use only a high-quality oil base or latex paint. To provide good adhesion of paint, a compatible tannin stain blocking prime coat should be applied. This does not apply to muntin bars, SDL (simulated divided lite) or ADL (authentic divided lite). Apply one coat of primer and two coats of top quality paint according to the paint manufacturer’s instructions. Staining
:Marvin does not recommend the use of stain or clear coat finishes on exterior surfaces.
:Before applying paint, varnish, polyurethane, etc., apply a good quality clear sanding sealer to the interior surface. However, if you desire a stained finish to the interior, the stain must be applied prior to the sanding sealer. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, sand sealer surface lightly with 220 or 320 grit sandpaper and clean before applying paint, varnish, etc. Use only a high-quality oil base or latex paint according to the paint manufacturer’s instructions. Staining
:Apply stain according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Apply as many coats of stain as necessary to achieve the desired color. Care should be taken so stain does not wick behind muntin bars or into the glass rabbet. After the stain is thoroughly dry, apply a sanding sealer. Sand sealer surface lightly with a 220 or 320 grit sandpaper and clean before applying varnish, etc. Apply at least two coats of varnish or polyurethane.
:Use only a high-quality oil base or latex paint. To provide good adhesion of paint, a compatible prime coat should be applied. Apply one coat of primer and two coats of top quality paint according to the paint manufacturer’s instructions. Staining
:Apply stain according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Apply as many coats of stain as necessary to achieve the desired color. Care should be taken so stain does not wick behind the muntin bar or into the glass rabbet. After the stain is thoroughly dry, apply at least two coats of sealer, i.e. varnish or polyurethane.
Marvin treats exposed millwork (wood) on windows and doors with a water repellant wood preservative. If any portion of the millwork is cut off or otherwise disturbed (by installation or damage in the course of the product’s lifetime), untreated wood will be exposed to the elements and may deteriorate. Untreated wood must be protected by a water repellant wood preservative which contains at least 0.5% IPBC. Apply as recommended by the treatment manufacturer. Failure to retreat properly or adequately voids warranty.
Marvin’s clad-wood products feature low-maintenance, extruded aluminum exteriors on both the sash and frame, and a commercial grade paint finish that meets AAMA 2605-05. It's resistant to chalking and erosion, keeping paint looking fresh and vibrant for years.
Painting over Marvin’s factory-applied clad finish voids any warranty, written or implied. Marvin Windows and Doors will not be responsible for any window or door which has had paint applied over its clad finish.
Small nicks and scratches to Marvin’s factory-applied exterior clad finishes can be repaired using touch-up paint orderable through your local Marvin retailer.
Wood-Ultrex Series products must have a finish applied immediately to prevent possible damage to the wood. Even a primed windows have no protective qualities and should be painted quickly.
If your window’s or door’s solid, bright-brass, laquered hardware does not have a PVD finish, please follow the directions below to care and maintain your bright-brass hardware. These instructions do not apply to antiqued brass, chrome-plated or nickel-plated brass finishes, oil-rubbed bronze hardware or PVD hardware finishes.
Solid brass hardware is typically factory-finished with clear lacquer. The durability of lacquer depends on the specific manufacturer involved and the circumstances of wear and environment. Lacquers are affected by pollutants, temperature extremes, ultraviolet light, marine salt air or spray, paint fumes, and household cleaning solutions which contain bleaches, abrasives, or solvents. Ordinary wear from frequent handling is also a factor. The harsh salt air environment of beach-front properties is perhaps the most severe condition frequently encountered, where lacquers can fail in a matter of weeks.
It is strongly recommended that ANY BRASS HARDWARE USED OUTDOORS BE COATED WITH WAX—either a nonabrasive paste furniture wax or a nonabrasive automotive wax. This waxing should be done immediately when the hardware is installed, and maintained frequently thereafter.
Painting or wallpapering can cause serious problem with brass lacquers. Although latex paints or wallpaper pastes dry within hours, their curing time is much longer, and they can remain chemically active for several days. Oil based paints and varnishes can take weeks to cure under high humidity conditions. Whenever painting, all brass hardware should be removed from the surfaces being painted, and not reinstalled until the paint is completely cured.
The initial symptom of lacquer failure consists of tiny darkened spots on the brass. If tarnishing is allowed to continue, the brass will eventually acquire an overall greenish brown “antique” look which some people enjoy. To restore a bright brass appearance the hardware must be stripped of any remaining lacquer, buffed to luster, then either re-lacquered, waxed or routinely polished.
Old lacquer can be stripped using very fine #0000 steel wool soaked in a light oil or soapy solution to reduce abrasion marks. Soaking the hardware in lacquer thinner might be necessary to loosen stubborn lacquer, but be certain the hardware contains no plastic parts, which the thinner will destroy. Then the brass can be polished either by hand with a soft cloth, or on a buffing machine, using brass polish or “wadding” compounds. Appropriate supplies can sometimes be obtained in kit form, such as the Gillespie Refinishing Kit.
If you wish to lacquer the hardware, leave it waxed. Do-it-yourself aerosol lacquers are seldom successful, and professional lacquers require very specialized equipment and facilities to be safely applied. The best lacquers are often two component “epoxy” type and are applied by opposite electrostatic charges on the metal and spray equipment. Special air cleaning, fume evacuation, and explosion proof equipment is needed. A number of commercial plating or metal refinishing shops can be found in most large cities, and are apt to have the necessary equipment and experience to refinish your hardware. But you should check the reputation of any particular shop and request to see samples of their work. After re-lacquering, the hardware should be waxed just like new hardware.
Marvin Architectural Hardware features designer handle sets from leading hardware manufacturers that complement a wide variety of architectural and design styles. For care and maintenance recommendations, please consult the recommendations of the specific hardware manufacturer.
Bouvet® - www.bouvet.com
Bouvet LaForge Decorative Hardware have been designed for a lifetime of beauty, with a superior finish. However, the manner in which the products are cleaned is essential to the life of the finish on the products.
Satin Black (07) or European Pewter (12) Finish
NEVER use abrasive cleaners, abrasive pastes, abrasive pads, or chemical cleaners of any kind on the products. Such cleaners will attack the protective coating and cause excessive wear to the finish. The use of such products on the hardware will void the warranty.
Nobilus hardware features an enduring, living finish that will change over time and with use. Some areas will become darker while frequently-handled surfaces become lighter. This is natural, and not a defect of the product.
Burnished Finishes: 70, 80, 90
The burnished bronze receives an anti-oxidation wax treatment. This process creates a warm, soft, natural metal glow. These finishes can be restored to their natural luster by periodically applying Flitz Metal Polish.
Hand Rubbed Oil Patina Finishes: 72, 73, 81, 82, 83
The different patina finishes are achieved by using age-old techniques of oxidation and hand rubbed oils and waxes. These finishes can be restored to their original luster by periodically applying our Bronze Rubbing Oil.
Burnished-Patina Finishes: 71, 74
The burnished patina finishes are achieved by combining the processes used to produce our burnished finishes and our hand rubbed oil patina finishes. These finishes can be restored to their natural luster by periodically applying Flitz Metal Polish very sparingly and buffing with a very light hand.
Bronze Rubbing Oil can be purchased from Nobilus. Oil should be regularly applied with a soft cloth to patina finishes 72, 73, 81, 82, and 83. Flitz Metal Polish can be purchased at most home improvement stores or from Nobilus. Please follow directions on the back of the Flitz bottle for proper application to finishes 70, 71, 74, 80, and 90.
Ashley Norton - www.AshleyNorton.com
Your dark oil rubbed bronze finish is not coated with lacquer and is designed to age naturally over a period of time. How quickly this process occurs is both dependant upon usage and whether the product is used externally. The natural ageing process will allow the brass color of the underlying metal to show through along areas of wear.
To retain luster to the product, clean periodically once every 2 or 3 months with a soft cloth and apply a light coating of bee’s wax to the product and buff up using a soft cloth. Alternatively you can leave the product to naturally age with elegance.
Do not use any abrasive or non abrasive cleaning materials or solvents when cleaning your oil rubbed bronze product or the Bronze color may be removed completely.
Your PVD finished product has undergone a state of the art process known as Physical Vapor Deposition. A layer of hard-wearing metals are deposited onto the solid brass substrate which means it has been given a tough finish to resist fading and discoloration by direct sunlight, humidity, and most other environmental factors, even in coastal areas.
To help retain the appearance of your PVD products for many years to come, a little periodic maintenance is required to remove any atmospheric deposits from the surface of the product.
Valli&Valli - www.vallievalli.com
Valli&Valli products do not require excessive maintenance. For care and cleaning, except in those cases where a specific product is recommended for certain finishes, use only a soft dry cloth to polish the hardware.
Brass is an alloy and subject to oxidation. It must be covered with a protective coating if its appearance is to remain unchanged over time. Care should be taken during use and maintenance, as improper use or poor maintenance could damage the protective coating, permitting corrosion and consequently causing an anti-aesthetic appearance.
Stainless steel is considered to be very durable. However, even this material can show the occasional scratch or spot of rust. Such rust spots are so called “surface rust,” and can be removed using an appropriate cleaner, available from specialized retailers.
The manufacturer cannot be held responsible for damage due to normal wear and tear, incorrect treatment, fixing or maintenance or non-observance of the warnings above.