Modern Multi Slide-Stacked

Installation Instructions

Revised on 2019-06-20

left arrow Go Back to All Installation Instructions

ABSTRACT: Please read these instructions in their entirety before beginning to install your Marvin Door product. These installation instructions demonstrate the installation of a Marvin door in new wood frame construction using an industry approved water management system. For installation using other construction methods, such as remodeling, replacement, and recessed openings refer to the latest version of ASTM E2112, “Standard Practice for Installation of Exterior Windows, Doors and Skylights,“ for installation suggestions. The same information for ASTM E2112 can be found on the ASTM website, www.astm.org.

Regional standard practices, environmental conditions, and codes may vary and supersede the procedures contained within. The responsibility for compliance is yours: the installer, inspector, and owner(s).

The English language version of this instruction is the official version and shall take precedence over any translation.

KEYS TO A GOOD INSTALLATION:

  • SQUARE the door in relation to the sill.
  • A GOOD INSTALLATION has a FLAT sill that is also LEVEL.
  • The BEST INSTALLATION has a FLAT and LEVEL sill and a SQUARE and PLUMB opening.

Correcting an out of square opening requires shimming beneath the sill and/or at the corners. These instructions assume an opening is constructed for the BEST installation with a flat and level sill and a square opening.

NOTE: Numbers listed in parentheses () are metric equivalents in millimeters rounded to the nearest whole number.

Hazards and Warnings

Warning!

Do NOT lift or move without proper equipment. Read, understand, and follow all lift equipment manufacturers’ instructions and safety information.

Warning!

This product can expose you to chemicals including titanium oxide, which is known to the state of California to cause cancer. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

Warning!

This product can expose you to chemicals including methanol, which is known to the state of California to cause birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

Warning!

Always practice safety! Wear the appropriate eye, ear, and hand protection, especially when working with power tools.

Warning!

Pinch point can occur at the panel intersections during operation. Do not keep fingers in the exterior pull when bypassing the adjacent panel.

Caution!

Wear gloves and protective clothing when handling the frame components. Some high-density fiberglass surfaces are not coated and can leave splinters in bare skin.

NOTE: Multi-Slide panel operation force is affected by panel size and number of panels. Keep this in mind when having to open or close large and/or multiple panels at one time.

Protective Film

This product features a clear protective film adhered to the glass surfaces to protect them from construction debris, dust, dirt, stucco, etc. When construction is complete, simply peel the film off and dispose of it with other construction debris.

Important

Do not use a razor blade to remove the protective film. Do not use a pressure washer to clean debris from the film. The film should be removed within nine months of application.

Please refer to the manufacturer’s website and bulletin for more information on the physical properties and usage of the protective film.

Important

DO NOT place suction cups over seams in the protective film.

Do not put suction cups on seams or edges

Please refer to the manufacturer’s bulletin for more information on the physical properties and usage of the protective film.

After Market Products

Alterations to Marvin products including window films, insulating or reflective interior window treatments or additional glazings can cause excessive heat buildup and/or condensation. They may lead to premature failures not covered under warranty by Marvin Windows and Doors.

Before purchasing or applying any product that may affect the installation or performance of Marvin windows or doors, contact the manufacturer of after-market product/glazings that are not supplied by Marvin and request written product use, associated warranties and damage coverage. Provide this information and warranties to the end user and/or building owner for future reference.

Installer and Builder Information

  • Always provide a copy of these instructions for the current homeowner.
  • Plan sizing of rough opening and clearance from exterior finishing systems to allow for normal materials shrinkage or shifting (e.g. wood structure with brick veneer; allow adequate clearance at the sill). Failure to do so can void the Marvin warranty coverage.
  • Refer to the Technical Installation Specifications section for technical specifications regarding the installation of this product. These installation requirements as well as the details in the section must be followed to achieve the advertised Performance Grade (PG) rating of this product.
  • It is the responsibility of the builder, installer, and subcontractors to protect the interior and exterior of windows or doors from contact with harsh chemical washes, construction material contamination and moisture. Damage to glazing, hardware, weather strip and cladding/wood can occur. Protect with painters tape and/or protective sheathing as required. Follow all guidelines regarding material use, preparation, personal safety and disposal.
  • Contact your Marvin supplier if you have any questions regarding product and materials used in manufacturing or questions on replacement parts.
  • Please refer to the PDF version of this instruction for further information regarding best practices installer and builder information, code, and other legal requirements. The PDF version is the official document of record.

Tools Needed

  • Safety glasses
  • Putty knife
  • Pry bar
  • Square
  • Drill/driver
  • T20 Torx, T25 Torx, #2 Phillips bits
  • 5mm Hex wrench at least 5"
  • 1/8" drill bit
  • 3/16" drill bit
  • 1/8" self centering bit (Vix bit)
  • Gloves
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Suction cups for handling glass panels
  • Utility knife
  • Level (laser level helpful)
  • Rubber mallet
  • Tape Measure
  • Mason’s line
  • Compressed air

Additional Supplies Needed

NOTE: Some supplies are sent with your door. Refer to the picklist in the job box for details.

  • Story poles (if necessary)
  • Low expansion, low compression foam
  • Flashing
  • Sealant
  • Sill Pan
  • Weather resistive barrier
  • Shims
  • Rags/paper towel
  • Minimum #8 size screws to fasten sill to rough opening (length depends on substrate).

Parts Included

Each door is shipped with panels, frame components, weatherstrips etc. Fasteners are sent in color coded packages noted below and throughout the instruction in the illustrations.

Color coded screw packages
1 Phillips Head, no package
2 #8x1/2" T-20 Torx head, purple package
3 #8x3" 2/3 thread Phillips head, blue package
4 #10 x 3" T-25 Torx 2/3 thread pan head screw, black package
5 #8x7/16" self drilling Phillips pan head, orange package
6 #8x1/2" Phillips flat head stainless screw, red package
7 #8x 1 3/4" self drilling T20-Torx pan head stainless steel, green package

High Performance Sill-Install the Sill Slope

NOTE: If you are installing a door with a standard flush sill or performance sill proceed to Install Panning.

If you are using a high performance sill, you will receive the Sill Slope pre-assembled and counter-shims that are snapped together as well as fasteners. After the sill opening is leveled you will install the Sill Slope, then your panning, counter-shims, and finally install the frame. See Figure 4.

Important

Sill opening cannot exceed 1/4" out of level. You must remedy the sill opening condition to within 1/4" of level before installing the sill slope.

HP Sill System
1 Sill Slot
2 HP Sill Slope
3 Optional pre-panning/sill leveling
4 Panning
5 Countershims
6 MSD door sill
7 Sill nosing

1. Temporarily place the HP sill component next to the opening. Mark the location of the holes on the RO subsill. This will help you locate the counter-shims. See Figure 5.

Figure 4

2. Set the sill slope in the slot at the desired location. Using the pre-drilled holes in the sill slope as a guide, drill through both walls of the sill slope and into the optional pre-panning and substrate. See Figure 6

NOTE: Temporarily place shims between the sill slope and the interior edge of the slot to maintain a 1/8" gap and help to mark the location of the slope once you remove it from the slot.

Figure 5

3. Remove the sill slope from the slot and blow out the holes with compressed air. See Figure 7.

Figure 6
1 Blow debris out of hole

4. Inject the pre-drilled holes with sealant. See Figure 8.

Figure 7
1 Sealant

5. Set the sill slope in the slot and fasten into the rough opening sill with a minimum #8 x 2 1/2" (64) pan head screw appropriate for your structure. The screw must penetrate at least 1 1/4" (32) into the subsill. See Figure 9.

Figure 8 Install sill slope
1 Optional pre-pan
2 Fastener-#8 size at least 2 1/2"
3 Slot
4 Sill Slope

Install Panning

1. Integrate your panning with the water management system.

2. Any fasteners penetrating the sill panning must have sealant applied to the pre-drilled hole prior to fastening.

3. All pannings for stacked configurations must have an end dam as high as the rear sill liner and sides that come up at least 4"(102). See Figure 10.

Figure 9 Stacked Panning for Performance or Flush sill shown.
1 Interior end dam must be as high as the sill liner on the door.
2 Sides must come up at least 4"

High Performance Sill-Install the Counter-shims

1. Assemble the counter-shims sent with the door.See Figure 11.

Figure 10 Connect counter-shims

2. If you have an odd number of sill tracks you will need to break off the exterior end of the counter-shim at the break line. See Figure 12.

Figure 11 HP Sill (3 track shown)
1 Door sill
2 Sill dam
3 Counter shim
4 Optional pre-panning

3. Place the counter-shims in the panning every 10"(254) using the marks you made earlier as a guide. The counter-shims should be placed beside the fastener locations (opposite side of the drain routs). See Figure 13.

Hint

Put a dab of sealant down to keep the counter-shims in place before you install the frame.

Figure 12 Set counter-shims
1 Panning
2 counter-shims
3 Sill Slope

4. Check the counter-shim/sill opening for level. If necessary use the 1/16" (3) thick adhesive backed shims (included) to bring the counter-shims to level. See Figure 14.

Figure 13 Level counter-shims with stackable shims
1 Counter shim
2 Stackable shims

Splicing the Sill

NOTE: You will have to splice your sill if the width of your door exceeds 21 feet (6.4 meters).

1. Lay the sill parts on a flat clean and protected surface with the splice sections lined up top side up. See Figure 15.

Figure 14

2. Press the splice sections together and seat with a rubber mallet. See Figure 16.

Figure 15

3. Flip the assembly upside down.See Figure 17.

Figure 16

4. Remove the screws from the splice keys.See Figure 18.

Figure 17

5. Tap the two sections together until the splice joint is tight and the end of the tracks are flush. The sill liners will sit 1/2"(13) beyond the tracks on each side of the sill.See Figure 19.

Figure 18
1 1/2" (13)

6. Fasten the splice keys with the screws you removed earlier. See Figure 20.

Figure 19

7. Drill pilot holes through the pre-drilled holes (found near the splice areas) using a 1/8" (3) Vix (self centering) drill bit. The depth cannot exceed 1/2" deep. See Figure 21.

Figure 20
1 1/8" Self centering drill bit.

8. Fasten sill sections with #8-18 x 1/2" (13) screws.

Figure 21
1 #8x1/2" screws

9. Once all screws are secured, flip the sill right side up. See Figure 22.

Figure 22

10. Where required, add the roller track, weather strip and sill slot covers over the spliced sections. See Figure 24, Figure 25, and Figure 26.

Figure 23
1 Bulb weather strip
Figure 24
1 Sill track
Figure 25
1 Sill slot cover
2 Interior side

Splicing the Head Jamb

NOTE: You will have to splice your head jamb if the width of your door exceeds 21 feet (6.4 meters).

1. Lay the head jamb parts out on a flat clean and protected surface.See Figure 27.

Figure 26

2. Press the splice sections together and seat with a rubber mallet. See Figure 28.

Figure 27

3. Remove the screws from the splice keys. See Figure 29.

Figure 28

4. Press the splice sections together and seat with a rubber mallet. See Figure 30.

Figure 29

5. Fasten the head jamb splice key with #8 x 1/2" (13) screws. See Figure 31.

Figure 30

6. Inject sealant into the hole nearest the splice until squeeze out appears in the nearby relief hole in the nail fin kerf. See Figure 32.

Figure 31
1 Sealant

7. Drill pilot holes through the pre-drilled holes (found near the splice areas) using a 1/8" (3) Vix (self centering) drill bit. The depth cannot exceed 1/2" (13) deep. See Figure 33.

Figure 32

8. Insert #8 x 1/2" (13) screws and tighten. See Figure 34.

Figure 33
1 #8x 1/2" Phillips flat head screws

9. Where required, add the frame liner, weather strip, dust blocks, and frame clips over the spliced sections. See Figure 35, Figure 36, Figure 37, and Figure 38.

Figure 34
1 Head jamb weatherstrip
Figure 35
1 Frame clip
Figure 36
1 Frame weatherstrip
Figure 37
1 Head jamb liner

10. Place dust block(s) on the frame clips approximately 7/8" (22) from the splice (on the stationary or pocket side). These will line up with the edge of the panels.See Figure 39.

Figure 38
1 7/8" (22) from weatherstrip splice

Assemble the Frame

Caution!

Wear gloves and protective clothing when handling the frame components. Some high-density fiberglass surfaces are not coated and can leave splinters in bare skin.

1. If your door is wider than 21 feet, you will need too splice your head jamb and sill components. Refer to Splicing the Sill and Splicing the Head Jamb before proceeding.

NOTE: Corner keys are pre-installed in the ends of the jambs at the factory.

2. Align the end of one side jamb with the head jamb and slide until the miter is flush. See Figure 40

Figure 39
1 Head jamb
2 Jamb

3. Slightly loosen the exterior screws holding the key to the jamb with a T20 Torx® head bit. This will allow the key to align with the head jamb holes. See Figure 41.

Figure 40
1 Loosen the exterior #8x 1/2" T20 screws holding key to jamb

4. Use the #8x 1/2" screws to fasten the head jamb to the key. See Figure 42.

Figure 41
1 #8x1/2" T20 screws

5. Tighten the jamb screws you loosened earlier. See Figure 43

Figure 42

6. Assemble the other jamb to the head jamb assembly. See Figure 44.

Figure 43

7. Slide the lower jamb corner keys into the sill. See Figure 45.

Figure 44
1 Jamb
2 Sill

8. Fasten with two #8x1 3/4" self drilling screws per key. See Figure 46.

Figure 45
1 #8x1 3/4" self drilling screws (T20 Torx)

NOTE: Where applicable, peel away the last two inches of the nail fin from the head jamb to access the inspection holes.

9. Inject the head jamb corner keys until there is squeeze out showing in the inspection hole. See Figure 47.

Figure 46
1 Sealant squeeze out from inspection hole

Install the Frame

Important

It is extremely important to start with a flat level sill. If you have not remedied an out of level sill, do so now.

Seek Assistance

You will need more than one person to install the frame.

1. Insert a "story pole" between the top of the sill and the head jamb track. Refer to field calculations for the proper length of story pole.See Figure 48.

Hint

Use crate material for the story pole.

Figure 47
1 Story pole

2. Stand the frame upright next to the rough opening and slide into the opening. See Figure 49.

Figure 48

3. Verify that the sill is flat and level. Make adjustments as necessary. See Figure 50.

Figure 49

4. Use the chart below to determine proper fastener placement depending on configuration (number of tracks). See Figure 51.

Figure 50 Place fasteners through Head Jamb, Sill, and Jamb at locations indicated by the star shapes above.

5. Center the frame in the rough opening and shim one corner at the bottom.See Figure 52.

Figure 51 Center the frame and shim at stationary sill side
1 Center the frame in the opening
2 Shim stationary sill side

6. Position the frame to the correct depth inject sealant and install an anchor screw in the stationary side sill.See Figure 53.

NOTE: Depending on the substrate and fastener of choice, you may have to predrill before fastening. Follow all fastener manufacturer’s recommendations.

Figure 52 Fastening performance sill
1 Sealant
2 Fastener will vary depending on sill construction

7. If you have a performance sill or flush sill skip to step 1.

8. Position the frame to the correct depth and pre-drill into the HP sill near the stationary side. Drill through the sill slope with a 1/8" drill bit. Then blow out the hole with compressed air. Do not puncture the optional pre-panning if used. See Figure 54.

Figure 53 Drilling through HP stacked sill.
1 1/8" drill bit
2 Compressed air

9. Inject sealant and fasten with the #8 x 1 3/4" self drilling screws every 10" (254) (T20 Torx). See Figure 55.

Figure 54 Seal and fasten HP sill.
1 Sealant
2 Screws

Squaring the Frame and Complete Fastening

Square the frame by starting with the stationary side top jamb, then move to the operating jamb, square and true the frame. Once the frame is square, plumb, and true in the opening complete fastening all round. The following steps provide more detail.

1. Square the stationary side. Use a laser level and speed square to plumb the jamb. Move the jamb left to right until square. See Figure 56.

Figure 55
1 Laser line
2 Speed square

2. Apply shims and adjust, then fasten through the jamb stationary side near the top with a #10 x 3" (76) Torx (T25) screw provided. See Figure 57.

Figure 56

3. Plumb and true the frame so that it is aligned on the same plane. Move to the operator or opposite side and apply shims and adjust, then fasten through the operator (or opposite) jamb side near the top with a #10 x 3" (76) Torx (T25) screw provided. See Figure 58 and Figure 59.

Figure 57
1 Shim
2 #10x3" flathead Torx screw (T25)
Figure 58 Make sure the entire frame is on the same plane and not twisted.

Hint

One way to plumb and true the frame is to attach crossing strings to the corners of the door diagonally. With the stationary side pinned in place, adjust the opposite side until the strings touch.

4. Starting at the center, shim and fasten the head jamb with #10 x 3" (76) screws so that a story pole stays in light contact with the sill and head jamb. Repeat this process the entire width. See Figure 60 and Figure 61.

Figure 59
1 Shim
Figure 60
1 #10 x 3" installation screws

5. On bi-parting units, fasten the flush bolt strike through the pre-drilled holes near the center of the head jamb using #10x3" (64) screws. Make sure there is adequate shimming between the RO and the head jamb at the location of the strike.See Figure 62 and Figure 63.

Figure 61
1 Interior
2 Flush bolt strike
Figure 62
1 #10x3" Torx (T25)

6. Install the remaining screws into the sill. (not provided on performance or flush sills). Fasten HP sills at 10" (254) on center. All other sills, fasten at 20" (508). See Figure 64. See Figure 51 previously for screw placement.

Figure 63

7. Complete fastening and shimming through additional fastener holes in the jamb. See Figure 65.

Figure 64

8. On uni-directional units, install the jamb filler with strike attached. The filler will snap into place, engaging with the top and bottom corner keys. See Figure 66.

Figure 65
1 Jamb filler
2 Frame corner key (frame not shown in inset)

9. On uni-directional units, pre-drill through the open holes in the strike plate (above and below each strike) with a 3/16"(5) drill bit.See Figure 67.

Figure 66
1 3/16" (5) drill bit

10. Shim and fasten with #8x3"(76) screws provided. See Figure 68.

Figure 67

11. On uni-directional locking jambs, apply a dust block at the top of the interior track behind the bulb weather strip. Position the block so it is centered between the joint on the head jamb and jamb weather strips. See Figure 69.

Figure 68

12. Place another dust block at the bottom of the jamb behind the jamb weather strip. See Figure 70.

Figure 69

Prep the Panels

1. On stationary and secondary panels, fasten the cover retainer to the top of the stiles with a #8x 1 3/4" (44) Phillips head screw. Slide the cover over the retainer. See Figure 71.

Figure 70
1 Stile hole cover retainer
2 #8x 1 3/4" Phillips head screw
3 Stile hole cover

2. On stationary panels, place the upper stationary bracket over the stile and attach with a #8 x 1" (25) screw through the corner key. See Figure 72.

Figure 71 Attach head jamb stationary bracket
1 Head jamb stationary bracket
2 #8 x 1" Phillips head self drilling screw

3. On stationary and secondary panels, fasten the bottom stile cover retainer to the bottom of the stile with a #8x 1 3/4" (44) Phillips head screw. Slide the cover over the bracket. See Figure 73.

Figure 72 Non-Primary panels
1 Cover retainer
2 #8 x 1 3/4" Phillips head screw
3 Cover

4. Fasten the bracket with a #8 x 1 1/2" (38) Phillips head screw. See Figure 74.

Figure 73
1 #8 x1 1/2" Phillips head screw

5. Place the stationary stile lower stationary bracket in the bottom rail channel and pre-drill using a 1/8" (3) drill bit. See Figure 75.

Figure 74
1 1/8" drill bit

6. Fasten the bracket with a #8 x 1 1/2" (38) Phillips head screw. See Figure 76.

Figure 75
1 #8 x 1 1/2" Phillips head screw

Install Panels

Attention

Panels with Flush and High Performance sills can be installed from either the exterior or interior. Panels with Performance Sills can only be installed from the exterior. The following steps show an exterior installation. Reverse the panel order if you are installing from the interior.

Warning!

LIFT HAZARD! Do NOT lift or move without proper equipment. Read, understand, and follow all lift equipment manufacturers’ instructions and safety information.

1. Install the primary operating panels or inactive panels first. Lift the top of the panel into the interior most head jamb track. Then swing the bottom over the sill track until centered over the roller guide. Set the panel gently onto the guide.See Figure 77.

Figure 76
1 Lift the panel into the head jamb
2 Set the sill on the track

2. Install the secondary operating panels next. Make sure each panel overlaps the previously installed panel so that the interlocks can engage with one another.See Figure 78.

Figure 77

3. Install stationary panels last. Install the panel so it is as close to the jamb as possible but overlapping the previous panel installed. See Figure 79.

Figure 78

4. Slide the stationary panel tight against the stationary jamb. See Figure 80. Close and lock operating panels.

Figure 79 Move stationary panel tight against the jamb

Important

Before proceeding make sure the stationary panel is centered on the track.

5. Test all the operating panels to make sure they lock and operate smoothly, adjust rollers if necessary.

NOTE: See the section Adjusting Panels for details on adjusting rollers and panels.

Adjusting Panels

1. Move the operator panel toward the locking jamb until there is a slight gap. Check for an even reveal/gap between the panel and the jamb. See Figure 81.

Figure 80

2. Place a block of wood on the sill and pry the panel up to relieve the weight off the rollers. See Figure 82.

Figure 81

3. Remove the locking stile roller adjustment hole cover. See Figure 83.

Figure 82
1 operator stile roller hole cover

4. On inactive panels meeting stile side, pry the lower plug and dust cover down to reveal the adjustment hole. See Figure 84.

Figure 83

5. Insert a 5mm hex wrench into the adjustment hole(s) and raise or lower the rollers accordingly. Rotate the adjustment screw clockwise to raise the panels. See Figure 85 and Figure 86.

Figure 84
Figure 85

6. Recheck for an even reveal and repeat the previous steps if necessary. See Figure 87.

Figure 86

7. With the primary panel open slightly, move the secondary panel until you can see daylight through the glass between the stiles. Check for an even reveal and adjust the rollers on the secondary panel. Repeat as necessary for every secondary panel. See Figure 88.

Figure 87

8. Lock the primary panel and make sure the interlocks between the primary and secondary panel engage properly. See Figure 89.

Figure 88 Interior View: Close and lock primary panel

9. Insert hole plugs after you are done adjusting panels.

Fasten Stationary Panels

1. Slide the stationary panel tight against the stationary jamb. See Figure 80. Close and lock operating panels.

Figure 89 Move stationary panel tight against the jamb

Important

Before proceeding make sure the stationary panel is centered on the track.

2. Measure from the edge of the stationary panel near the jamb. Move the meeting stile end of the stationary panel until the distance is the equal. See Figure 91 and Figure 92.

Figure 90
Figure 91

3. Install #8 x 7/16" Phillps self drilling screws through the bottom stationary bracket into the sill.See Figure 93

Figure 92
1 #8x7/16" Phillips

4. Bend the top stationary bracket up against the head jamb and pre-drill a 3/16" (5) hole through the head jamb using the bracket as a template. See Figure 94 and Figure 95.

Figure 93
1 Head jamb stationary bracket
Figure 94
1 Head jamb stationary bracket

5. Fasten through the bracket into the head jamb framing with a #10 x 3" (76) installation screw. See Figure 96.

Figure 95
1 #10x3" Torx (T25)

Install Sill Frame Covers

1. Where a cover meets a panel, insert a sill drain filter in the end of the cover before installing it in the sill. See Figure 97.

Figure 96 Uni-directional shown
1 Sill cover
2 Sill drain filter

2. Start with the panels closed and locked. The sill covers fit between the stationary panel or secondary panels on the exterior and the jambs. Seat the cover with a rubber mallet. The cover will fit slightly under the stationary panel. See Figure 98, Figure 99 and Figure 100.

Figure 97
Figure 98
1 Sill drain filter
2 Sill cover (between secondary panel and locking jamb)
Figure 99
1 Cover between stationary panel and locking jamb
2 Cover between secondary panel and locking jamb

3. On bi-parting stacked configurations, fit the cover between the two stationary panels. The cover will come in two pieces. Slide the smaller of the two under one panel and pound into place. Fit one end of the longer piece under the other panel, then butt the other end in place and seat the cover with a rubber mallet. See Figure 101.

Figure 100 Bi-parting configurations (exterior cover shown)

Install Head Jamb Frame Covers

NOTE: Exterior covers are made of high density fiberglass.

1. With all the panels closed, squeeze and insert a head jamb gasket adhesive side up into the head jamb track. Position the gasket flush with the panel(s). See Figure 102.

Figure 101 Exterior

2. Starting from the exterior, install the fiberglass head jamb covers. The covers have a leg that fits into a kerf on the jamb weather strip or a kerf in the frame itself. Fit the leg on the cover into the kerf on the jamb and rotate the cover into place. You may need to seat the cover with a rubber mallet. See Figure 103, Figure 104, and Figure 105.

Figure 102 Exterior frame covers
1 Stationary panel
2 Secondary panel
3 Head Jamb frame cover
Figure 103
1 Head jamb gasket
2 Head jamb cover
Figure 104

Install Jamb Frame Covers

NOTE: Interior covers are made from aluminum, exterior covers are made of high density fiberglass.

1. Install the fiberglass exterior locking jamb covers. The covers have a leg that fits into a kerf on the jamb kerf in the frame. Fit the leg on the cover into the kerf on the jamb and rotate the cover into place. You may need to seat the cover with a rubber mallet. See Figure 106.

Figure 105

2. Install the aluminum interior stationary jamb covers. The covers have a leg that fits into a kerf on the jamb weather strip. Fit the leg on the cover into the jamb kerf and rotate the cover into place. You may need to seat the cover with a rubber mallet. See Figure 107.

Figure 106

Install Panel Bumpers

1. On secondary panels, fasten panel bumpers to the interior meeting stile at the top and bottom with #10 x 1 1/2" Phillips head screws. See Figure 108.

NOTE: Bumpers with a "1" embossed in the back are used on secondary panels where they meet primary panels. Bumpers with a "2" embossed into the back of the bracket are used on secondary panels where they meet other secondary panels.

Figure 107 Top secondary panel bumper
1 Bumper used on secondary to primary
2 Bumper used on secondary to secondary
3 #10 x 1 1/2" Phillips head screw
Figure 108 Bottom secondary panel bumper
1 Secondary panel bumper
2 #10 x 1 1/2" Phillips head screw

2. For stacked 2 track doors at the stationary jamb, insert the 1/8" (3) thick flex bumpers into the holes at the top and bottom of the interior jamb cover. Flex the bumper and insert into the holes. See Figure 110 and Figure 111.

Figure 109 Flex the bumper and insert in top of jamb cover
Figure 110 Flex the bumper and insert in bottom of jamb cover

Install the HP Nosing

1. On all units with an HP sill, install the sill nosing into the groove on the exterior sill liner. Insert the "foot" of the nosing into the groove at an approximately 45 degree angle then rotate the part down into place until the long leg of the nosing contacts the sill frame/panning.

Figure 111
1 Sill nosing

2. Apply sealant around the end cap and then push the cap into the ends of the sill nosing.

Figure 112
Figure 113

3. Seal the bottom of the entire length of the sill nosing leaving gaps at the sill weeps.

Figure 114

Important

Do not allow sealant on the front face of the sill weeps on the sill nosing. Clean excess sealant immediately.

Technical Specifications

The following details are specified for proper installation of the unit to meet the advertised performance grade (PG) rating.

  • Rough Opening Width: 1/4"-1 1/2" (6-38) wider than unit frame outside measurement.
  • Rough Opening Height: 1/4"-3/4" (6-19) taller than unit frame outside measurement.
  • Masonry Opening Width: 1/4"-1/2" (6-13) wider than unit frame outside measurement.
  • Masonry Opening Height: 1/8"-1/4" (3-6) taller than unit frame outside measurement.

Attention

Architectural Detail Manual Specifications: Rough Opening: Width up to1 1/2"(38); Height up to 3/4" (19)

Masonry Opening: Width 1/4"

  • The panning must drain water to the exterior of the cladding OR the exterior surface of a concealed weather resistive barrier.

Caution!

Be aware that the use of sill pans and other barriers will decrease the rough opening height clearance. Adjust opening dimensions accordingly.

Caution!

Be aware that the use of sill pans and other barriers will decrease the rough opening height clearance. Adjust opening dimensions accordingly.

  • The panning system used in these instructions is one component in a structure’s overall water management system. It should be used in conjunction with an appropriate drainage plane compatible with the exterior wall cladding.
  • Flashing materials must comply with ASTM E2112, and be compatible with all materials used in installation including panning systems, air barriers and building papers, sheathing, and the window unit.
  • Properly flash and/or seal all windows at the exterior perimeter.

Important

Flashing material must not contain asphalt and must be compatible with flexible PVC (vinyl) if nailing fin is used as a backing material.

Important

Sealants used for installation must be Grade NS Class 25 per ASTM C920 and compatible with the building exterior, window or door exterior surface, and flashing/water management materials.

  • Optional foams used for installation must be low expansion only. Foam and foam application must comply with ASTM E2112.
  • Shims are required at every fastener location.
  • Do not use chemically treated products for shim material.
  • Fasteners penetrating chemically treated lumber must be a minimum of 0.90 oz/ft2 zinc hot dipped galvanized or stainless steel type 304 or 316.
  • The frame must not come into direct contact with chemically treated wood products.