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ABSTRACT: Please read these instructions in their entirety before beginning to install your Marvin window product. These installation instructions demonstrate the installation of a Marvin aluminum clad Narrow Frame (Contemporary) Direct Glaze Corner window (CCNTPRYDGCNR) in new wood frame construction using an industry approved water management system. For installation using other construction methods, such as remodeling, replacement, and recessed openings refer to ASTM E2112, Standard Practice for Installation of Exterior Windows, Doors, and Skylights." Information for ASTM E2112 can be found on the ASTM website, www.astm.org For product specific issues, service instructions and other field service guides, refer to the Marvin Service Manual. Regional standard practices, environmental conditions, and codes may vary and supersede the procedures contained within. The responsibility for compliance is yours: the installer, inspector, and owner(s). For measuring information, please refer to the
Clad Window (Contemporary) Corner Window Measuring Instructions.
Alterations to Marvin products including window films, insulating or reflective interior window treatments or additional glazings can cause excessive heat buildup and/or condensation. They may lead to premature failures not covered under warranty by Marvin Windows and Doors.
Before purchasing or applying any product that may affect the installation or performance of Marvin windows contact the manufacturer or after market product/glazings that are not supplied by Marvin and request written product use, associated warranties and damage coverage. Provide this information and warranties to the end user and/or building owner for future reference.
Please consult with local authorities to properly dispose and/or recycle all packaging, materials, and waste.
These products contain chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or reproductive harm.
Older homes may contain lead-based paint which may be disturbed when replacing windows or performing renovations. Consult state or local authorities for safe handling, disposal or abatement requirements. For more information, go to www.epa.gov/lead
Drilling, sawing, sanding or machining wood products generates wood dust, a substance known to the State of California to cause cancer. Avoid inhaling wood dust or use a dust mask or other safeguards for personal protection.
Always practice safety! Wear the appropriate eye, ear and hand protection, especially when working with power tools.
NOTE: Numbers listed in parentheses () are metric equivalents in millimeters rounded to the nearest whole number.
Follow installation instructions included with part if applicable.
The corner window installation kit includes 4-nailing fin corner gaskets, head jamb nail fin, window leg assemblies, corner bracketry including fasteners, exterior and interior corner caps. For more details skip to the section Installing the "Leg Assemblies".
1. Remove protective packaging from the window and dispose/recycle properly. Inspect the window for any hidden damage and report it immediately to your Marvin representative.
2. Apply jamb extension before installing the window in the rough or masonry opening if necessary.
3. Apply air barrier. Trim the air barrier across the entire top of the head jamb. See Figure 2.
4. Make one 6" (152) vertical cut on the corner. See Figure 3.
5. At the top corners, make a 45 degree cut away from the corner. See Figure 4.
6. Flip the top flaps up and tack in place temporarily. See Figure 5.
7. Cut the air barrier across the sill. See Figure 6
8. Make a vertical cut about 6" (152) from the sides of the rough opening running from the top to the bottom of the opening.See Figure 7
9. At the sill, trim the bottom corners about 3 1/2" (89) wide on each side and then make an additional 2" (51) vertical cut. See Figure 8.
10. Tack the side jamb air barrier away from the opening temporarily. See Figure 9.
11. Check the rough opening for level, plumb, and square. See Figure 10 and Figure 11.
Be aware that the use of sill pans and other barriers will decrease the rough opening height clearance. Adjust opening dimensions accordingly.
1. Cut one 18" (457) strip of Type III flexible self adhered pan flashing material. See Figure 13.
2. Fold material in half to crease. See Figure 14.
3. Fold the material at the seam of the release paper on the 3" (76) crease. See Figure 15.
4. Remove the release paper from the adhesive backing at the 3" section. See Figure 16.
5. Center the material on the corner and adhere to the outside face of the building at the sill. See Figure 17.
6. Cut the flashing at the crease in the corner. Stop about 1/4" from the sill. See Figure 18.
7. Remove the backing from the top section on one side and adhere to the opening. Then repeat on the opposite side. See Figure 19, Figure 20, and Figure 21.
8. Cut another strip of flashing equal to the full length of one rough opening leg. Make the same folds as earlier. See Figure 22.
NOTE: This length will allow you to wrap the flashing up the side jamb about 6".
9. Apply the flexible flashing to the sill leg starting about 6" (152) from the corner. Lap the flashing up the side jamb. Repeat on the opposite side. See Figure 23.
Do not layer the leg flashing at the corner so that it overlays more than one other layer. This could cause difficulties in flashing and leveling the assembly later.
10. Fold the flexible flashing down over the outside. Smooth out the flashing with the edge of a speed square or other tool to ensure there are no bubbles or voids. See Figure 24.
11. Apply seam seal tape at the corners of the flexible flashing. See Figure 25.
12. Where applicable, trim excess sill flashing material flush with the interior framing. See Figure 26.
13. Wrap the air barrier into the rough opening. Staple, and cut excessive material from each jamb and cover with seam seal tape. See Figure 27 and Figure 28.
14. Draw a 45 degree angle onto the sill of the rough opening to reference the meeting line for Leg Assembly 1 and Leg Assembly 2. See Figure 29.
15. Apply sealant at the seam between the corner flashing and the flashing at the legs. See Figure 30.
1. Center the bracket on the mitered frame that does not have the factory applied gasket. Use the supplied fasteners to attach the bracket to the frame (fastener locations are pre-marked on the bracket).See Figure 33.
Some large windows and/or assemblies are very heavy. Avoid injury by getting help to lift and position the assemblies into the rough opening. Having assistance from another person will be necessary when adjusting the assemblies and fastening them together.
NOTE: If you are using masonry or structural brackets for your installation attach to the jambs now. Follow installation instructions that are sent with the brackets.
If using masonry or structural brackets remove the nailing fin from the jambs and sill. You may want to cut small lengths of nail fin and attach between brackets to assist in installation later.
NOTE: If you are using field applied casing, refer to the field applied installation instructions sent with the casing.
2. Place shims on the sill near the corners, near the miter, at the center, and every 15" on center as needed. See Figure 35.
3. Level the shims as necessary to make sure both legs are level. See Figure 36
4. Place the unit with the gasket into the RO. Align the center jamb closely to the center-line drawn on the RO. See Figure 37.
5. Level at the sill and plumb the unit. Adjust shims under the sill to level if necessary. See Figure 38.
Proper shimming is extremely important. Under shimming or over-shimming will result in bowed jambs and or head jamb. When shimming near the miter location be sure to shim each window independently and as close to the miter as possible.
6. Temporarily fasten the unit into the RO by tacking the nailing fin with a 2" roofing nail. See Figure 39.
7. Place a 1/4" (6) bead of adhesive the full length of the center jamb along the interior side of the gasket. See Figure 40.
8. Place a 1/4" bead of adhesive along the sill and head jamb miter as shown in Figure 41.
9. Set the bracketed leg assembly into the RO and align the location feature on the bracket into the nail fin kerf of the other unit. See Figure 43.
10. Check that the units are level to one another and that the interior miter is flush. Shim as necessary. See Figure 44.
11. Using the supplied #8 x 5/8” pan head self tapping screws, fasten the bracket to the gasketed leg. See Figure 45.
12. Temporarily fasten the unit into the RO by tacking the nailing fin near the top corner with a 2" roofing nail. See Figure 46.
13. On the interior check that both the head jamb and sill are square. See Figure 47.
NOTE: Make adjustments as needed to obtain a tight miter at the sill and head jamb.
14. Pre-drill and fasten the unit through the sill, jambs, and head jamb 6" from each end and 15" on center (fasten at shim locations near the miter). See Figure 48 and Figure 49.
15. Optional: If you are using structural brackets on your installation, fasten them to the jambs/head jamb RO framing at this time. Follow the instructions sent with the brackets for fastening details.
16. Use the supplied #6 x 1 1/2” screws to fasten through the pre-drilled holes on the interior miter of the corner jamb. See Figure 50.
17. Measure, cut and dry fit the interior wood cover over the miter. Fasten the cover to the mitered frame using a method appropriate for your situation. See Figure 51.
18. Apply and tool silicone on the exterior frame ensuring all the exposed wood at the sill are covered. See Figure 53.
19. Apply a 1/4" bead of sealant to the frame head jamb and seal and tool the exposed wood area. See Figure 54.
20. Apply silicone to the top end of the exterior corner cap.See Figure 55.
NOTE: The part is not handed until sealant is applied.
Do not apply sealant to the sill end of the corner cap.
21. Attach the end caps to the corner cap with the supplied #7 x 5/8" screws. See Figure 56.
22. Snap on the clad corner cap. Seat the cap with a rubber mallet. See Figure 57.
Ensure the cap is oriented with the weep holes at the sill. It is very difficult to remove the cap once seated without destroying it.
23. Measure and cut the drip cap nail fin to length. The drip cap miter is precut on one end. See Figure 59.
24. Install the drip cap. The barbed leg of the drip cap seats into the head jamb corner cap. See Figure 60.
25. Seal behind the nailing fin at head jamb and jambs. See Figure 61.
26. Fasten the nailing fin with roofing nails around the perimeter.
27. Apply a bead of sealant at the top corner under the mitered edges of drip cap. See Figure 62.
Nailing fin is not designed to be a weatherproof flashing.
1. Adhere a 3" (76) high x 8" (203) wide piece of flexible flashing over the top corner of the drip cap. See Figure 64.
2. Apply nail fin corner gaskets to each corner of the nail fin. Follow the instructions sent with the gaskets.See Figure 65.
NOTE: If a drip cap or rigid head flashing is not already installed on the head jamb or head jamb casing of the window, do so now. The drip cap should extend about 1/8” (3) beyond the edge of the window on each side. Be sure to apply a bead of sealant along the back sides of both vertical and horizontal surfaces of the cap that come in contact with the window, window casing, and sheathing.
3. Install an optional "high pressure skirt". Use flashing material or a strip of weather resistive barrier and attach it to the sill of the window with seam seal tape or flashing tape.See Figure 66 and Figure 67.
When installing the high pressure skirt, do not plug the weep holes in the end cap.
4. Lap vertical strips of self adhered flashing membrane onto the unit or casing and out over the air barrier. See Figure 68.
5. Make small cuts at the head jamb to allow the membrane to fold back onto the sheathing.See Figure 69.
6. Install another layer of adhesive membrane lapping onto the head jamb of unit. Membrane flashing should extend and cover the flashing previously installed at the jambs. See Figure 70.
7. Seal the ends of the vinyl drip cap or rigid head flash by injecting sealant at each end.See Figure 71.
8. Fold the head jamb air barrier down over the flashing. Tape and seal the top corner. See Figure 72
9. Apply seam seal tape over the diagonal cut in the air barrier at the top corners. Make sure the tape laps onto the unit or casing. Tape and seal any seams and fasteners directly above the unit. See Figure 73.
Marvin recommends two ways of insulating the interior rough opening cavity. Both are outlined in the following steps.
1. Loose Fill Fiberglass Insulation. Insulate the RO cavity with loose fill insulation. Install a backer rod and sealant at the interior plane of the RO to create a continuous air seal. See Figure 75.
2. Low Expansion Foam. Install a backer rod at the exterior plane of the RO. Apply a low expansion/low compression closed cell foam in the cavity. Install a backer rod and sealant at the interior plane of the RO to create a continuous air seal. See Figure 76.
NOTE: For more information on insulating and sealing, refer to the Window Rough Opening Prep and Flashing instruction on our website.
Perimeter sealant must be Grade NS Class 25 per ASTM C920 and compatible with the window product and the finished exterior(s) of the building. Using improper sealant could result in sealant failure causing air and water infiltration.
1. For ALL applications: Once the exterior finish such as siding or brick veneer is installed, apply backer rod (if applicable) and a bead of sealant between the finish and the frame exterior or casing along the sides. Apply additional beads approximately 1"-2" (25-51) at the ends on top of the drip cap. See Figure 77.
When sealing the installation do not plug the weep holes in the end cap.
The following details are specified for proper installation and for the unit to meet the advertised design pressure (DP) rating.
Architectural Detail Manual Specifications:
Rough Opening: Width 1" (25); Height 1/2" (13).
Masonry Opening: Width 1/2" (13); Height 1/4" (6).
Flashing material must not contain asphalt and must be compatible with flexible PVC (vinyl).